Leave No Trace Climbing

* Plan Ahead
o Pick a climb that suits the skill level of you and your group to minimize the possibility of injury and need of rescue.
o Use appropriate equipment that has been thoroughly checked before the climb.
o Find out about permits and practices for your planned climb. Some locations do not allow drilling or anchors, or require permits first.
o Carpool to popular locations to minimize overcrowding at the trailhead.
o Develop adequate skills in all members of your climbing party. The ability to properly use removable protection preserves the adventure for future climbers. Proper placement and use of bolts or pitons ensures a safe and minimally impacted route.
* Durable Surfaces
o If you have a group, ensure the staging area is large enough to accomodate you.
o Even though rock is highly durable, continual climbing can wear it down and break pieces off. Avoid cliff edges, cracks, and ledges that are prone to erosion, especially on soft rock types such as sandstone.
o Use quick draws where possible to reduce wear on existing permanent anchors.
o When Bouldering (low, horizontal climbing across a rock face), ensure the ground is durable so your spotters or crash pad will not destroy vegetation. Excessive removal of rocks or other landscaping to make a bouldering problem safe should be avoided. Land managers may need to implement restrictions if bouldering sites become overly impacted.
o Since most popular climbing routes have established descent trails, use them rather than rappeling the descent. This avoids leaving anchors in place. In some areas with easily eroded soil or fragile vegetation, rappelling may result in the least impact.
If you rappel, leave removable anchors tied off around rocks or trees, using colors that blend and placed where climbers can find them but that won't be unnoticed by other visitors to the area.
o Do not wrap rope around trees where the friction can destroy the bark. Instead, tie a sling around the tree and run your rope through a carabiner attached to the sling.
* Campfire Impact
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* Dispose of Waste Properly
o Pack out worn out or discarded gear such as old webbing or discarded tape.
o Minimize the use of chalk. Keep your chalkbag closed to prevent spills. Clean up any spills that do occur.
o Human waste is a problem around popular climbing areas. You should go to the bathroom on the way to the climb so you can avoid the problem altogether. Since the soil is often thin with little vegetative growth in many arid or alpine climbing areas, the best solution is to pack out all human waste. You can create your own Pack Out Kit or use a commercial one. Burying waste results in high concentrations of catholes in a small, highly used area.
* Leave What You Find
o Use removable protection as much as possible.
o Use fixed protection sparingly. Use earth-colored webbing. Use colored bolt hangers. This will help minimize the visual distractions.
o If you plan to place any bolts, check with local land managers first. It may be illegal or you may be required to use a hand drill rather than motorized drill.
o If you are climbing a new route, avoid lichen-covered rock, vegetated cracks, and areas that require lots of cleaning. Leave the rock as you find it rather than force a route that will leave a noticable path.
* Respect Wildlife
o Critical nesting sites are found in cliff faces for many birds. Other animals use rock outcrops for shelter. Be aware of closures, both mandatory and voluntary, and follow them. Keep alert for animals protecting their home and change or abandon your route to leave them space.
o Be careful where you place your hands and feet so you do not accidentally destroy a nest or get bitten by hidden wildlife.
* Be Considerate of Other Visitors
o Climb on weekdays or less popular times.
o Wear earth-tone clothes to minimize your visual impact while scurrying up a cliff face.
o Minimize noise while waiting to climb.
o Give other climbing parties plenty of room and time to climb at their pace. Or, politely ask if you can pass when it is convenient and safe.
o If you enjoy music while climbing, use headphones rather than a portable stereo so others can enjoy the area.

Leave No Trace Principles
The 7 Leave No Trace (LNT) Principles of outdoor ethics form the framework of Leave No Trace's message:

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare
o Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you'll visit.
o Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies.
o Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.
o Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4-6.
o Repackage food to minimize waste.
o Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
o Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow.
o Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet from lakes and streams.
o Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.
In popular areas:
• Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites.
• Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy.
Keep campsites small.
• Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.
• Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly
o Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter.
o Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp, and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished.
o Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.
o To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

4. Leave What You Find
o Preserve the past: examine, but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts.
o Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them.
o Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species.
o Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

5. Minimize Campfire Impacts
o Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light.
o Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires.
o Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand.
o Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, and then scatter cool ashes.

6. Respect Wildlife
o Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them.
o Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and exposes them to predators and other dangers.
o Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely.
o Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.
o Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors
o Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience.
o Be courteous. Yield to other users on the trail.
o Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock.
o Take breaks and camp away from trails and other visitors.
o Let nature's sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.